Port St. Lucie RV Repair fixes RV water heaters on-site - Suburban, Atwood (Dometic), gas and electric models. Pilot won't stay lit, no hot water, thermostat failures, anode rod replacements, and bypass valve issues. $80-350 depending on the repair.
Port St. Lucie RV Repair fixes RV water heaters on-site - Suburban, Atwood (Dometic), gas and electric models. Pilot won't stay lit, no hot water, thermostat failures, anode rod replacements, and bypass valve issues. $80-350 depending on the repair. We carry common parts on the truck. Call 772-276-6465. Need other RV plumbing repairs? We handle those too.
RV water heaters are nothing like your home unit. Most are 6-gallon tanks (some 10-gallon) made by either Suburban or Atwood, now branded as Dometic. They run on LP gas, 120V electric, or both - and each mode has its own set of things that go wrong. We fix these every week across Port St. Lucie, FL and the Treasure Coast.
The gas side is where most problems show up. The thermocouple senses the pilot flame and tells the gas valve it's safe to stay open. When the thermocouple gets dirty or fails, the pilot lights but won't stay lit - you hold the button down and it's fine, let go and it dies. That's the #1 call we get for water heaters. The igniter board (DSI - Direct Spark Ignition) on newer units can also fail, giving you a clicking sound but no ignition, or error codes flashing on the board.
On the electric side, it's usually the heating element or the thermostat. Electric mode heats slower than gas (about 45-60 minutes for a full tank vs. 20-30 on gas), so some owners don't realize the electric side has failed until they try to run both modes and still run out of hot water. We test both circuits during every water heater service call.
The other common issue is the anode rod. Suburban units use a magnesium anode rod that sacrifices itself to protect the steel tank from corrosion. Florida's water eats through these fast - we see rods that are completely dissolved after 2 years. If you ignore it, the tank itself starts corroding and eventually leaks. An anode rod swap is $40-60 and takes 10 minutes. It's the cheapest maintenance you can do on a water heater.
Almost always the thermocouple. It senses the flame and keeps the gas valve open. When it gets dirty or fails, it thinks the flame is out and shuts the gas off. $80-130 for a new one. We keep Suburban thermocouple kits on the truck.
The DSI (Direct Spark Ignition) board is sending spark but gas isn't reaching the burner, or the board itself has failed. Could be a dirty burner orifice, a stuck gas solenoid, or a fried circuit board. We test each component systematically.
If gas mode works but electric doesn't (or vice versa), one heating source has failed and you're running on half capacity. A 6-gallon tank on gas alone gives about 8-10 minutes of shower time. On electric alone, it takes twice as long to reheat. We test both modes.
The anode rod is reacting with sulfur bacteria in the water. This is very common with Florida well water. Replacing the standard magnesium rod with an aluminum/zinc rod usually fixes the smell. $40-60, takes 10 minutes.
Check the T&P relief valve first - it may have opened due to excess pressure or a stuck thermostat. Also look at the drain plug and the tank itself for corrosion. If the tank is rusted through, it's replacement time.
If it's a thermocouple, element, or thermostat, repair it - those are $80-280 fixes on a unit that costs $400-800 to replace. If the tank is corroded through, the gas valve is seized, or you're stacking multiple failures, replacement starts making more financial sense. We'll tell you straight which way to go.
Every RV water heater brand has its own quirks, parts, and failure modes. Here's what we see most often in Port St. Lucie and across the Treasure Coast, and what you should know about each one.
The most common RV water heater on the road. Steel tank with a magnesium anode rod. Models SW6DE (6-gal gas/electric), SW10DE (10-gal), and SW6D (gas only). We stock thermocouples, igniter boards, heating elements, anode rods, and thermostats for all Suburban models. The steel tank is durable but needs that anode rod replaced regularly or it'll corrode from the inside out.
Aluminum tank - no anode rod needed. Models G6A-8E, GC6AA-10E, and the newer Dometic DE series. The aluminum tank doesn't corrode like steel, but the gas side uses the same thermocouple and igniter tech. According to Dometic's specifications, these units are rated for 10+ years. The igniter boards and thermostats are the most common failure points we see on Atwood units.
Tankless on-demand water heater found in some higher-end rigs. Different technology entirely - no tank, heats water as it flows through. Endless hot water as long as you've got gas, but the flow sensors and circuit boards can fail. Less common than Suburban or Atwood, but we service them across the Treasure Coast.
Call 772-276-6465 or request an estimate online. Tell us what's happening - pilot won't stay lit, no hot water, clicking but no ignition, or a leak from the compartment. If you know the brand and model (Suburban SW6DE, Atwood G6A-8E, etc.), that helps us make sure we've got the right parts loaded. We'll schedule you same or next day.
Our tech tests both gas and electric modes, checks the thermocouple, inspects the igniter board, tests the heating element and thermostat, and checks the anode rod condition. You get a written estimate before we start any work. Most water heater issues take 15-20 minutes to diagnose.
We carry Suburban thermocouples, igniter boards, heating elements, anode rods, and thermostats on the truck. Most RV water heater repairs finish in under an hour. Full replacements take 2-4 hours depending on the model. You're back to hot showers the same day.
| Repair Type | Price Range | Typical Time |
|---|---|---|
| Thermocouple replacement | $80-130 | 30-45 min |
| Igniter board / DSI board replacement | $150-280 | 45-60 min |
| Gas valve replacement | $180-320 | 60-90 min |
| Electric heating element replacement | $100-180 | 45-60 min |
| Thermostat replacement (gas or electric) | $80-150 | 30-45 min |
| Anode rod replacement | $40-60 | 10-15 min |
| T&P (pressure relief) valve replacement | $60-100 | 20-30 min |
| Bypass valve replacement | $80-140 | 30-45 min |
| Full water heater replacement (unit + labor) | $400-800+ | 2-4 hours |
Hot water heater pilot wouldn't stay lit for the whole winter. Tech came out, said it was the thermocouple, had the part right there, done in under an hour. Price was fair. Would have cost me three times as much at a shop.
Electric side of our Suburban stopped heating. Tech tested everything, found a burned-out element, and had a replacement on the truck. Back to hot showers in 45 minutes. Honest pricing, no upsell.
Rotten egg smell from the hot water for months. Tried every additive on the internet. Tech said it was the anode rod reacting with our well water, swapped it out for an aluminum zinc one. Problem solved in 10 minutes for less than $60.
Most repairs run $80-350. A thermocouple swap is $80-130. An igniter board is $150-280. A heating element is $100-180. Full water heater replacement (unit + labor) runs $400-800+ depending on the model. We give a written estimate before starting.
Yes, we repair water heaters on-site every week. Thermocouples, igniter boards, elements, thermostats, anode rods, T&P valves - we carry all the common Suburban and Atwood parts on the truck. Most repairs are done in under an hour.
Check it once a year. In Florida, the water is harder and more corrosive, so rods tend to dissolve faster - sometimes in 1-2 years. If the rod is more than 50% gone, replace it. It's a $40-60 job that prevents a $400-800 tank replacement.
Either the heating element has burned out or the electric thermostat has failed. Could also be a tripped breaker or a bad connection at the back of the unit. We test all of these during a service call. Element replacement runs $100-180.
With proper maintenance (anode rod changes, annual flush, and keeping the burner clean), a Suburban or Atwood water heater should last 10-15 years. Without maintenance, we see tanks fail in 5-7 years from corrosion. The electronics (igniter boards, thermostats) typically last 8-12 years.
On gas, a 6-gallon tank should be hot in 20-30 minutes. On electric, allow 45-60 minutes. If it's taking longer, the gas burner may be dirty (weak flame), the thermostat could be set low, or on electric side the element might be partially failed. We can diagnose the cause in about 15 minutes.
We handle all RV plumbing repairs - water pumps, toilets, pipe leaks, tank valves, shower drains, and more. If you've got multiple plumbing issues, we can knock them all out in one service call across Port St. Lucie and the Treasure Coast.
We cover St. Lucie, Martin, and Indian River counties for all RV water heater repairs. From Vero Beach and Sebastian down through Fort Pierce, Port St. Lucie, Stuart, Palm City, and Jensen Beach.
Call us or request a free estimate. We'll get a tech out to your site with the right parts - same or next day. Thermocouple swaps, element replacements, full water heater installs. All done at your campsite or driveway.